Lights, camera ... and lots of action

By Samuel Gaytan
San Antonio Express-News Online

If you think of the international film festival when you hear the word Cannes, then you're only getting one frame in a full-length feature.

True, much of the world's attention turns here as nearly 4,000 journalists converge at its convention center to cover the festival that, as Jean Cocteau said, "is an apolitical no-man's land, a microcosm of what the world would be like if its inhabitants had direct contact with each other and they all spoke the same language."

This year, 35,000 are expected in May to speak the language of cinema at the festival that was sparked in response to fascist attempts by Italy and Germany in the '30s to interfere with which films were honored in Venice. World War II interrupted the September 1939 inaugural festival, which wouldn't get a chance to begin flourishing until 1946.

The festival, which celebrates its 50th anniversary this year (a lack of funds kept it from being celebrated in '48), is deeply rooted in the psyche of the city.

The first-class La Palme d'Or restaurant in the Hotel Martinez pays tribute to the highest award granted at the cinefest. Portraits of stars including Greta Garbo, Marilyn Monroe, Maria Callas, Robert Redford and other stars are placed ceremoniously among the art deco decor.

During a recent visit to the restaurant's kitchen, I was able to sample 15 items from the menu. Each was outstanding, particularly the battered, fried shrimp. And the orange sorbet dessert, served with chocolate cake, made for a perfect culinary cap. If you are ever in Cannes, make a visit to La Palme d'Or mandatory. You will not be disappointed.

Many of the photos in the hotel were taken by members of the Traverso family, who have been chronicling the festival from its inception.

Gilles Traverso continues in the tradition of his grandfather and has compiled a photographic exhibit at La Malmaison museum that chronicles the festival's 50 years.

The Traverso family's work also is going to be shared in a book, so true film lovers will have no excuse for not taking a look into the festival's past.

But there is much more to this sophisticated city of nearly 70,000.

While it has neighborhoods rivaling that of its U.S. sister city, Beverly Hills, it also has fishermen who keep the city's restaurants supplied.

And while it has luxury hotels, accommodations can be found for under $75 dollars a night.

Avoiding it because of cost concerns is as defeating as coming to enjoy it simply for the luxuries. It is a vibrant, cosmopolitan city that offers treasures for everyone.

They include the Isles de Lérins, which are a quick, calm boat trip from Cannes.

The Isle of Ste.-Marguerite became the prison in 1667 of a man whose face was hidden behind a velvet mask. As the rumors sprang about who he was (a twin or illegitimate brother of Louis XIV, or perhaps the queen's lover), storytellers such as Voltaire turned velvet into iron and the legend of the Man in the Iron Mask was born.

During a visit to his cell, I looked out of his heavily barred window: Only slivers of the Cannes shoreline were visible. Prison in paradise must truly have been shattering.

But now the isle's residents are all voluntary, including children who stay on it during summer camps and visitors who travel the 15 minutes across the water to witness the ancient history surrounded by wilderness.

The Musée de la Mer in the isle's Fort Royal (built by Richelieu) has a fascinating collection of glassware and ceramics from the first century Roman shipwreck La Tradelière, the 10th century Saracen shipreck Le Batéguier, and other artifacts reclaimed from the sea. Items continue to be added to the collection as new discoveries are made.

The restaurants along the path leading up to the museum and prison offer respite for hungry hikers, but close early in the evening.

The isle's smaller twin, St. Honorat, became the home of St. Honoratus at the end of the fourth century. Monks soon joined him. The isle remains private property of a monastery that makes a liqueur, Lerina, but it is open to visitors. It has chapels, a fortified monastery and a museum.

The city that got its main start when an English lord was kept out of Italy because of a cholera epidemic in 1834 (like most people, he fell in love with the food, wine and weather) has strong ties to the sea.

Its four ports hold 2,500 boats, ranging from sailing boats to a Saudi billionaire's yacht. Water sports have a strong following.

But there are also plenty of places on shore for recreation.

La Croisette, which got its name from a small cross that served as the gathering place for pilgrims to the Isle of St. Honorat, features a collection of deluxe hotels, restaurants, shops, galleries and other opportunities for commerce.

The esplanade's rows of palm trees and flowers keep the city's 160 gardeners busy and bring even more beauty to a stroll along the seaside.

Le Sequet's narrow alleys lie along the paths started by the Romans. It has a Saracen tower, the 17th century church of Our Lady of Good Hope, the 12th century chapel of Ste. Anne, the Old Harbour, and a flea market on Saturdays.

It also has the Auberge Provençale, founded in 1860, the oldest restaurant in Cannes.

It specialties include bouillaibaisse (soup with Mediterranean rock fish) and bourride (monk fish soup). It might take you a bit to find this spot, but it is worth the effort. It's wooden rafters, crackling fireplace and tiled floors give an intimate feel to the exemplary dining experience.

In a small city whose summer population balloons to 230,000, you might consider visiting at other times of the year.

And you won't have to worry about finding things to do. While the film festival is the city's most famous, other celebrations throughout the year feature everything from golf to computers to dance.

If you go once for the films, you'll be back for everything else.