By Samuel Gaytan
San Antonio Express-News Online
Menton is to France what South Florida and South Texas are to
the United States: a haven for the retired seeking a warm place
to relax. In the summer, the towns' population balloons by as many
as 50,000 as visitors stream in.
But while the pace in Menton is less intense, the
atmosphere is just as welcoming as elsewhere on the Riviera.
And the annual Citrus Festival draws 200,000, including many neighboring Italians, to
the border city of 29,141. The festival, held in February, features three
day parades and a night parade.
Large floats take shape from oranges, lemons and other citrus grown in the
area that are sculpted together with sheets of wire and rubber bands. But
the demands of the Citrus Festival have outgrown the area's industry. While
only 60 tons are grown locally, more than 120 tons of citrus are used
for the festival, with much of it imported from Spain.
During the festival, examples of the work can be seen during a tour of
citrus sculptures in the city's plaza. One of them this year was a re-creation
of an expeditionary vessel on display in the Monaco museum.
During the festival, I was able to visit the home of a Menton farmer,
Francois Mazet. The former French Formula III champion and Formula I
racer now grows citrus on nearly five acres in the Menton countryside.
When his wife mentioned the space his trophies took up, Mazet had most
of them welded together into a sculpture, which was then dipped
in a bath of silver. Mazet hasn't looked back since, embracing
the citrus farm he took over from his mother with a refreshing gusto.
As with most local growers, most of his crop goes to area hotels and
restaurants. But for three weekends during the citrus festival his farm is open
to the public. Some portions of his crop also go into jams or cedrat,
a liqueur popular in Corsica.
While taking a tour of his terraced land, he pointed out 600-800 year old
olive trees that still produce fruit, and said lemon trees as old as 100
years old still can produce fruit as well.
Lemons from the area can be kept for up to two months without
refrigeration, he said.
If you are ever in Menton during the Citrus Festival, ask the tourism
office for directions to Mazet's farm if you want to get a taste of
Menton's agricultural industry.
But citrus isn't the only resource Menton residents are proud of.
The Promenade du Soleil runs along the shore beneath the old town,
which features some of the most distinctive traditional architecture
along France's Mediterranean coast. Current building codes enforce
respect for the area's architectural history that is missing in some of the
buildings farther away from the city's coastline.
The Musée Jean-Cocteau and the Musée du Palais Carnoles feature
art that when combined spans the centuries, presenting a glimpse at
the area's artistic wealth. Menton City Hall's marriage room features paintings
by Jean Cocteau.
The area is also known for its gardens. The city's slogan, "My City is a Garden,"
highlights the theme. One, the Jardins de la Villa Serena, is only a few minutes
drive from the Italian border.
The Hôtel Des Ambassadeurs, Menton's only four-star hotel, offers garden
packages.
If you do make it to Menton, consider lunch at the hotel's restaurant, taking
time to note the Belle Epoque furnishings leading to it from the lobby. The use
of the snake motif on the lamps and other furnishings is remarkable.
The hotel's restaurant offered impeccable service,
and the wine and food - especially the roast lamb -
were outstanding. And don't be surprised to find the chef walking through the dining
room, making sure all are satisified.
In Menton, life may be less harried, but its quality is always savored.
