Grimaldis, francs reign in Monaco

By Samuel Gaytan
San Antonio Express-News Online

Monaco is a consumer's paradise.

In the land of Cartier, Christian Dior and Piaget, the franc reigns supreme. But you don't need a platinum card to be happy in the principality. A friend did some hunting and bought a cashmere blazer for the equivalent of $50.

Besides shopping, another top activity is eating.

With more than 125 restaurants and sidewalk cafes to choose from, it also is a gourmet's paradise.

A must is a visit to Le Cafe de Paris, where the dining room's leather, cast iron, copper, mahogany and 16 stained-glass windows, representing the signs of the zodiac and the seasons, complement the exquisite meals and service. Don't be surprised to find designers and other wealthy patrons dining around you. While most of the dress is elegant, the atmosphere is definitely unpretentious enough to be enjoyable.

Another fine restaurant is the one-star La Coupole, in the Hotel Mirabeau. Both restaurants feature Monégasque cuisine, including courgettes filled with local vegetables and bits of meat or fish. At La Coupole, the presentation and service is as impressive as the food, with waiters uncovering the dishes with a flair unmatched elsewhere.

The number of entertainment and dining options is impressive for a principality with only 30,000 residents (5,000 of whom are Monegasques) in an area only three miles long by a half mile wide.

But size can be deceptive. Monaco occupies mountainous slopes, and despite underground tunnels and elevators, walking too far could be beyond the abilities of the out of shape or elderly. Buses and cabs are available, as are rental cars.

Monaco is perhaps the most beautiful place on the Riviera, with a holiday feel particularly evident at night when the lights turn Monte-Carlo into a surreal, almost Christmas-like setting. Buildings that were merely beautiful examples of architecture during the day become dreams bathed in light in the clean night air, while during the day villas are perched solidly along the surrounding mountains.

But despite it's beauty, some things can be unsettling, including the omnipresent police and hidden street videocameras. Just try to remember that the security will come in handy if you leave a casino with pockets full of winnings. A thief would have to be insane or possessed by Houdini to think he could get away with a caper here.

Also, the people on the streets and sidewalks keep to themselves, avoiding others in an attitude usually reserved for cities many times the size. Not to worry. Friendly faces can be found. Where? Start at the Casino at Monte-Carlo, which is open from midday to 6 a.m.

You can tour James Bond's stomping grounds for a 50-franc entrance fee. Play slots for as little as one franc in the tourist area or 20 francs for roulette. If you're feeling lucky and have quite a few more francs to spend, step into the private and superprivate areas.

Thinking about taking a 007 spin at roulette? Lay down the 2,000 franc minimum in one of the three superprivate roulette rooms and let her roll.

But the casino, built in 1878 by Charles Garnier, the architect who also designed the Paris Opera House, is more than a gambler's mecca. It is a study in fine architecture and design, with 700 pound crystal chandeliers hanging overhead.

It also houses the principality's Opera House, which is an amazing collection of copper cupolas, rococo turrets and golden chandeliers.

The Opera House seats 550, not including booths for the prince, mayor and president of La Société des Bains de Mer (SBM), and is worth visiting in its own right.

SBM controls the most impressive hotels and restaurants in the principality, including the Hotel Hermitage, Hotel de Paris, the Monte-Carlo Beach Complex and Hotel, the Hotel Mirabeau (all four-star hotels), as well as the Casino, 19 restaurants, and Les Thermes Marins de Monte-Carlo (The Sea Water Thermal Baths of Monte-Carlo).

Les Thermes Marins offers sea water treatments, including hydromassage, underwater shower, algae bath, a jet shower, essential oils bath, algae or mud packs, massage with affusion and sea water aerosol. Also offered are programs to help cut stress, lose weight and quit smoking.

Where should you stay? The top choice would probably be the Hotel de Paris, which features the three-star Louis XV restaurant.

But you can't go wrong with a stay at the Hotel Hermitage, an experience perhaps best likened by a friend as ``walking through a wedding cake.'' The light colors create a tranquil, mesmerizing effect. Balconies offer a sea view overlooking a marina filled with yachts and sailboats. They also make for a peaceful place to watch the sunset on the sea and gaze at the buildings that dot the surrounding mountains.

Visits to some of the top restaurants and entertainment spots, including nightclubs, the Casino and top retail stores, are within easy walking distance from either of these hotels.

This year, the principality is celebrating 700 years of rule by the Grimaldi family.

Events for 1997 include the Historical Grand Prix by the Automobile Club of Monaco, which will feature classic automobiles from earlier Grand Prix races (May 3-4) and the Monaco Grand Prix (May 11).

Sites worth seeing include:

• The Princess Grace Rose Garden, with 4,500 rose bushes, features nearly 200 different varieties over 10 acres. They are in bloom from April through June.

• The Exotic Gardens, with more than 7,000 succulent plants (mostly cactuses) from desert regions across the globe. Also in the gardens are the Grottes de l'Observatoire, ancient dwellings of early cavemen.

• The Monaco Cathedral, constructed of white stone in a Romanesque-Byzantine style. It is the final resting place of Princess Grace and other previous leaders of the principality.

• The Oceanographic Museum, built in 1910, features 4,500 fish in 90 tanks representing species from every ocean. The museum offers an interesting array of preserved specimens and artifacts from historic expeditions. It is perhaps the most family-oriented site, with enough aquariums to keep the youngest and oldest of minds entertained. Vantage points within and around the museum offer visitors the chance to gaze at the Mediterranean.

• The Prince's Palace, perched on the Rock of Monaco, is home for the ruling family and dates from the 16th century. The changing of the guard takes place daily at 11:55 a.m. It is open to visitors (for a fee) July through September.

• The Private Collection of Antique Cars of H.S.H. Prince Rainier III, is open from 10 a.m. to 6 p.m. every day. It is closed in November. Admission is 30 francs for adults, 15 francs for children 8 to 14. Around 100 cars are on display, ranging from a 1907 Berliet to a 1986 Lamborghini. Citroens, Rolls Royces, as well as U.S. cars spanning the 20th century, sit in the same building as horse-drawn carriages from the 1800s. The juxtaposition of a Camaro from the '70s with a Lamborghini makes it worth the visit alone.

In addition to Monte-Carlo, other areas of the principality include Fontvieille (a mainly industrial area on land reclaimed from the sea), La Condamine (a commercial district), and The Rock.

For a quick walking tour, visit The Rock. In the span of a few blocks you can tour the Oceanographic Museum, the Prince's Palace to view the changing of the guard, and the Monaco Cathedral. After touring The Rock, treat yourself to a meal at the Restaurant Castleroc, which offers a low-key dining opportunity either in an outdoor bistro-like environment or inside. Either way, you can sample some top Monégasque cuisine in a friendly, casual environment.