By Samuel Gaytan
San Antonio Express-News Online
Perhaps the most relaxed stop on the Riviera is
St. Paul de Vence.
Its medieval village offers a chance to browse through a historic setting
coupled with shops and restaurants on a hill overlooking pine-covered
foothills that are only a few miles from the Mediterranean. The ramparts,
built in 1537-47 by order of Francois I, remain an impressive symbol of the
defensive nature the village once represented.
Today, the village, population 2,903, celebrates its rich artistic history
with both educational and commercial endeavors.
Shops offer everything from inexpensive curios to original artwork worth
several thousand dollars.
If you're in an art buying mood but don't have a wad of francs to spend,
visit some of the poster shops, where you can buy reproductions of works by
artists such as Matisse. But you might want to make sure you have a carrying
tube to protect them from damage. The shops I stopped in didn't have any, so
I passed on the posters. If I had known about the wide choices offered, I
would have bought a tube in Nice. C'est la vie.
But by all means stop in the art shops. The proprietors take pride in the
works and are eager to discuss them, even if it's in a patchwork of French
and English.
Art isn't the only focus of the shops. Others are toys, food and
clothing. You can watch as clothes are being made or buy wine or cooking-related
utensils that you'd like to bring back to the States. And you'll be
able to buy film or disposable cameras in some of the shops, as well as
newspapers in English.
When you're done with shopping, stop by the Maeght Foundation. It features
an extensive collection of 20th century paintings, sculptures, drawings,
ceramics and graphics. One of the most interesting features is its
outstanding sculpture garden, highlighted by several works by Miró. Other
artists represented include Chagall, Matisse, Giacometti and Kadinsky.
The foundation is open every day, but closes for lunch.
When the day is done, relax at the Hotel Le Mas D'Artigny. The hotel, my
favorite on the tour, was built amid 22 acres of pine trees. It has 84
accommodations, but the choice of lodging I recommend is one of the 25
apartments, each of which features its own garden and swimming pool. It is
the ideal choice for couples who want to get away from everything after a
long day and relax in privacy and peace, while remaining only a few feet away
from outstanding drinks and food in the hotel's bar and restaurant.
The hotel, whose neighbors included Chagall, also features art exhibitions
and an art gallery, two-all weather tennis courts, table tennis, billiards, a
large heated pool, a putting green, jogging trails, boutiques and beauty
salons. And it's only six miles from the sea.
A long hall leads down to the apartments. The hand-washed paint
and the wood-carvings illuminated in nichos in the hallway, as well as
the focus on art, give a rustic charm to the
four-star complex that reminded me of the U.S. Southwest -
Santa Fe, N.M., in particular.
Yes, comparing a medieval French fortress-village to a city in the Southwest
sounds peculiar, but both highlight the past while celebrating art
that spans centuries.
